Daffodils are easy to grow with minimal care.
Daffodils multiply in two ways: asexual cloning
(bulb division) where exact copies of the flower will result, and sexually
(from seed) where new, different flowers will result.
Seeds develop in the seed pod (ovary), the swelling
just behind the flowerpetals. Most often, after bloom the seed pod swells
but it is empty of seed. Occasionally, wind or insects can pollinate the
flower during bloom by bringing new pollen from another flower. When this
happens, the seed pod will contain one or a few seeds.
When the seedpod is almost ripe, the dried flower blossom will fall off,
and you can often hear the seeds rattling around in the pod. This is a good
time to pick it, to avoid losing the seed on the ground. If you wait too
long, and you find a dry open pod, the seed is gone.

Daffodil seed isn’t all that rare and it isn’t all that hard to start.
Here’s how.
To begin with, species daffodils can be pollinated and produce seed. You’ll
recognize the seed pods as lumpy – well pods – that turn harder and brown
after the flowers have faded.

Where is the seed pod?
The pod will be formed behind the flower so this
means that once the flower has faded, do NOT cut off or deadhead the stem. Wait
for the seed pod to turn brown.
Do All Daffodils Produce Seed Pods?
In my experience - no.
Some of the doubles and “weird” flower shapes do not seem to set seed readily.
But most do.When Do I Harvest the Seed
The easiest time is to wait until the pod just
starts to shrink or shrivel up a little after it has turned brown. Some of them
will even start to open up from the end - this definitely means they are ripe.
This usually means the seed is mature. Remove the seed from the pod to plant.
What Now?
keep the seed cool and dry for a month or so and then sow the seed in a baggie
half-filled with damp vermiculite. I put this in the frig crisper so it stays
cool and damp for 90 days.
I then simply put the seed into a pot filled with good, weed-free artificial
soil (like Promix), barely cover the seed, water with luke warm water, and let
it germinate at room temperature.
Sometimes you don’t even have to use the pre-cooling but can simply sow them in
pots in the spring. You won’t get as high a germination this way but it does
work for some of the seeds.
The seed will look like bits of grass.
How Do I Grow Them Up?
The easiest thing is to devote a section of garden to them. Treat them as if
they were tiny, tender onions (pretty much the way they are). Handle carefully
and transplanting the daffodil seed at the same depth they were in the pot.
No weeds allowed in this garden area!
Use gentle compost tea and compost for fertilizers.
Do not let them suffer from too much drought the first year. In fact, the first
few weeks after transplanting, I wouldn’t let the soil dry out too much at all –
remember they are very shallow rooted.
Good strong sun although noon shade is great for the very early seedlings to
protect them from drying out.
When Do They Bloom?
If you have fertile soil and take good care of
them, you can expect to see small blooms in the third year. But the fourth year
is likely.It's a lot of work. Essentially, you're growing onions for
two years and then digging/moving them to another garden location. Lots of
weeding, lots of digging.
But a heck of a lot of bulbs. And there will be a great variety of flower
shapes as you're taking seed from a hybrid. You'll never know what you're
going to get.


Hybridizers grow daffodils from seed to try to produce new varieties. The
problem with it is that it takes a really long time to get a blooming size bulb
from seed. Typical is maybe five years. That said, daffodils that
naturalize well are seeding themselves, so if you have a naturalized planting
you should see seedlings popping up sooner or later. The initial foliage is very
thin, I usually find them about a flower stems length away from the original
clump. The ovary is at the base of the flower petals, then when the flower
fades and eventually the stem topples over and splat, out fall the seeds.
The seeds are ripe when they literally rattle in the seedpod or the pod is about
to burst open. They should be black then. Some people plant them right away,
others wait and plant in late summer. Apparently they can also be stored...In general, Narcissus (or daffodil) seed presents no particular problem
with germination. Like most seed of this type, it will readily germinate
(when planted in June soon after harvest) with the cooler temperatures and
abundant moisture of fall. If harvested in June but not planted until
September/October there may be some retarded germination but it isn't
obvious the following spring. Only when the seed has been kept out of the
ground for a year, or longer, before planting will there be retarded
germination or failure to germinate. I have done this (for various
reasons) over the years and found that nothing will appear above ground for
at least one complete season after planting. This indicates that the seed
as it dries in preparation for an extended dormancy develops inhibitors in
the seed coat. The seeds go from plump, shiny-black in appearance to
smaller and matte-black. The suggestion that seeds be soaked prior to
planting has never occurred to me to try with year old daffodil seed. I am
going to try that in the future to see what happens! I have a feeling that
that seed may germinate normally, in season, after the soaking process
removes inhibitors present in the outer coating that are dependent on
rainfall to leach out.
Chilling daffodil seed would have no particular effect, I would think, as
they grow in many areas about the world that do not have particularly cold
winters. Tazettas, for example, are native to the countries around the
Mediterranean and were probably carried eastward by travelers on the Silk
Road to China.
source:
http://www.flower-garden-bulbs.com/daffodil-seed.html
http://www.flower-garden-bulbs.com/sowing-daffodil-seed.html
http://www.daffodilusa.org/daffodils/faq.html
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